He said he heard a scream, then the sound of a person falling. Photo by Jed Brown. The success of the Omega Foundation expedition in climbing the previously virgin Rutford (GPS surveyed at 4477m) on December 9 and 10, 2006—see the December 12 Newswire—left Anderson (ca. The most common mixes used are EANx32 and EANx36, with 32 % and 36 % oxygen, respectively, compared to 21 % oxygen in atmospheric air.. Other mixes are also used but a mix richer than 40 % is quite rare in recreational diving. Famed climber Lara Kellogg fell to her death in a climbing accident last week on Mt. [Photo] Jed Brown. The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. Photo by Jed Brown. ... started alpine climbing instead. Photo (c) Colin Haley. Moffit, The Entropy Wall, New Route. The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. Recently, he's been off to Squamish to work on elevating his rock climbing skills. 4157m), toward the northern end of the Sentinels, as the highest unclimbed mountain in the range. This year's climb was the third winter ascent of this striking peak. In August Colin is heading to Pakistan to climb Ultar Sar's (7,388 meters), Southeast Rib/Pillar that has seen 3 previous attempts. Moffit (3968m). According to this article posted on MountainZone.com, Kellogg was climbing with mountaineer Jed Brown at the time of the accident. Mt. Climbing; First ascent: January 7th 2007 - Jed Brown (US) & Damien Gildea (AUS) Location of Sentinel Range in Western Antarctica. Ascent: First ascent of the Entropy Wall (2,300m, VI 5.9 A2 WI4+) on the north face of Mt. Photo by Jed Brown. The Pencil on Polar Circus. Reinhold Messner received the lifetime achievement award; Walter Bonatti star guest at Courmayeur. A Note About the Author: Jed Brown, 23, was born in Alaska and calls Fairbanks home. He made the first winter ascent of Mount Huntington via the Nettle-Quirk (V AI 4), March 2007— with the Alaskan Jed Brown, who is a year and a half his senior and a Ph.D. student studying the numerical analysis of ice flow at the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology in Zurich. Just six weeks earlier I’d had one third of my ring finger amputated due to frostbite sustained while soul-searching on a big wall in Pakistan. Jed Brown and Colin Haley made the probable first winter ascent of Mt. If your climbing was a style of music what would it be and why? Jed Brown, Lara’s climbing partner on Wake, later explained events of the day she died. Going off some tips from friends and some limited research, we travelled to the Zanskar region to try Kun (7,077m). Difficulty announced: 6c free climbing, mixed climbing with an ice passage of 75° Date of the ascent: April 2009 Xuelian West, 6422 m China Over five days, Americans Jed Brown and Kyle Dempster along with Scotsman Bruce Normand completed the North face of the Xuelian West (Chinese Tien Shan). Photo by Jeff Benowitz. In early July, Jed Brown of Fairbanks, Alaska, and I flew from Delta Junction to Alaska's Hayes Range, landing on mudflats some ten kilometers down-glacier from Mt. We snow caved when we hit the ridge and continued up the ridge in the morning. This ice next to our camp on the glacier is probably unclimbed. Nettle-Quirk Route (V, AI4), first winter ascent of Huntington, with Jed Brown. House-Haley Route (VI, WI5, M7), first ascent, with Steve House. Lara-Karena Kellogg died two weeks before her 39th birthday while Jed on the ridge. Enter Jed Brown. Climbing; First ascent: Jed Brown (US) December 2006: Easiest route: snow/ice climb: Sentinel Range with Craddock Massif, USGS Map. Jed on the upper face. Dan Rollert near the top of Polar Circus (WI 4+) The Upper Weeping Wall (WI 6) being baked by the sun. Colin and I flew to the `mudflats' next to the Trident Glacier moraine on July 4, 2006. Published: Feb. 5, 2018. This gendarme forms the crux of the Northeast Ridge. He is a Ph.D. student at ETH Zürich, doing numerical analysis of … Last modified 2007-03-29. With Jed Brown, if successful, it will be yet another first. The American-Scottish pair returned to base camp next day, but Dempster and Vilhauer remained on the upper Muzart Glacier for a further week, climbing a 1,600m ice route up the impressive northwest buttress of Yanamax, stopping on its 6,180m sub-peak (virtually a separate summit), which Huntington was first climbed in winter in 2007, when Jed Brown and Colin Haley summited via the West Face Couloir. For the 2015 outing, Stuckey recruited Diesinger to join the team—they both live in Fairbanks, Alaska. In 2007, Haley and Kelly Cordes made the first complete ascent of Tiempos Perdidos, a route on the south face of Cerro Torre. Photo (c) Colin Haley. For a dive shop to supply Nitrox to divers, they need to clearly specify what mixes their tanks have. Kelly Cordes had e-mailed me in January about joining an expedition to the Chinese Tien Shan with Jed Brown and Bruce Normand. Dempster’s achievements, as cited in a previous Rock and Ice article, include ascents of the Ogre 1 with Hayden Kennedy and Josh Wharton in 2013, and the first ascent of the north face of the Xuelian West (Chinese Tien Shan), 2010, with Jed Brown and Bruce Normand; both climbs garnered prestigious Piolet D’Or awards. Jed and I climbed the Diamond together back at the end of June and had a great time. Canadian Rockies Ice Climbing. Colin above the ice climbing on the upper face. Frieh, Stuckey and Brad Farra teamed up in March 2014 to make the first winter ascent of Huntington's French (NW) Ridge. May 2007. Sentinel Range map. First, Sam and I set our sights on a line attempted in the 1990s by Jon Miller and the late Keith Echelmeyer, and again in 2005 by Jed Brown and Kevin Wright (both parties turned back). On July 10, we started up the route. He received a text message from one of his longtime climbing partners, the 51-year-old Scotsman Bruce Normand, who was currently on expedition to the 7,388-meter Ultar Sar, in Pakistan. Click for high resolution versions. Frieh and Stuckey repeated that route in the winter of 2011. When I asked Jed Brown, an assistant professor in the Department of Computer Science at CU Boulder, how he would introduce himself, he responded by saying that he usually introduces himself by claiming not to be something. (Jed Brown and Colin Haley first climbed Huntington in winter in 2007.) Wake, in Denali National Park, Alaska. 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